Carnaval Rio - Dress Rehearsal

Viradouro - Beija-Flor - Mocidade at Sambadrumo - Portela

Did you ever want to peak behind the scenes at what some call the greatest show on earth - Rio Carnaval?

It turns out you can.  All the major samba schools open their rehearsals to the community. 
If you don't want to venture too far from downtown Rio, check out the technical rehearsals at the Sambodromo.
I visited three neighborhood samba schools and one technical rehearsal this January 2007.  
I can report a good time was had by all.
General info: The samba parade in Rio generates a lot of money for the city of Rio.  As is usually the case, for many years the actual performers / carnaval artists, saw little of the money.  That was rectified years ago and an organization now shares the some of the profits with the samba schools. End result, the major samba schools all have a rehearsal halls  in their neighborhood that is used for activates including rehearsals.  Some rehearsals are open to the public.  Most charge a fee for admission, although outside the rehearsal halls  you will find music, food and drinks.  It is a whole scene unto itself. 
 Caution - bring a set of earplugs - the music is really loud. 
 

Viraduoro
 www.unidosdoviradouro.com.br
(Best Batteria)

Driving to the rehearsal requires crossing the Rio - NiterÓi bridge at night.  The view of the lights of Rio, looking  across Guanabara Bay, is spectacular

At first glance we thought we were back in the US.  We had to drive through the vacant "Sam's Club" parking lot to get to the rehearsal space.

Don't eat before you arrive as there is lots of food to be had. 

 


The main meal is hot dogs, but vegetarians can have a field day with the  toppings.

 

 NiterÓi  is served by a bridge and ferries to downtown Rio and while it is a big city with it's own economic base it also serves as a suburb to Rio proper.  During the day a visit should include a stop at the NiterÓi Moma. 

There is a Pagode band
to warm us up

 

 

 

but when the Batteria starts up WOW!! They were smoking.

With music like this dancing unavoidable. 


You can't dance
without smiling at the person next to you. 


 That's how I met the two Marias.
Cecilia, Maria de Lourdes, Wendy Collins,  Maria José

Cost - 15 $ Reals women,  20 $ Reals men


 

  

 

 

We got inside early enough to relax and watch the crowd filter in.  The crowd is mix of races and ages. 

Unlike the  US

where drinking regulations and social customs mean teens and adults rarely party together,

 

 
at Rio Samba Schools mixing is the norm.

 The rehearsal studio includes a platform to practice your platform samba.  If you are good enough to be chosen to be atop the float.

 

 

Director Surrey... & Sueli Saude

Beija-Flor
 www.beija-flor.com.br
(best street scene)
It was worth the long drive from downtown but it would be tricky to find
even with the map provided on the web site.
While there were no restaurants or bars located near by. 

The street was filled food and drink vendors. 

The lights of the city can be seen
in the background making for a very pleasant scene.

 
The crowd was varied and definitely dressed for the event,  Beija-Flor t shirts, the most artistically designed of all the groups we visited, were present in as impressive vast variety of  styles.  The scene outside was lively and worth the trip even if you don't get inside.

Unfortunately the inside was a bit of a let down.  They spent way too much time introducing each section. 

When the batteria got started the fun began. 

They had lots of costumed participants and great dancers

but it was hard to dance or see
as the visitor section was body to body and very hot.

batteria director


 Back outside, with a bit more room to breath, the party seemed to go on all night.

GRES Beija-Flor de Nilópolis
Rua Pracinha Walace Paes Leme, 1025
Nilópolis - tel.: (21) 2791-2866

 
Mocidade at the Sambadromo
 www.sambacity.info/mocidade-padre-miguel.html
(Best chorograpy)

The Sambadromo, locals call it the Sapucai, is the stadium built for the Carnaval parade. 
It is a short walk from either the Presidente Vargas subway stop.  
With two subway stops in Copacabana this is easy and cheap for visitors. 
If you stay late you will need to cab it back as the subway closes at
Midnight on Saturday
 11:00 PM the rest of the week.

Once there you can eat, drink and dance to the pagode band

in the food court, adjacent to the stadium. 

When the music started we found ample space to watch the show
from the grandstand or and at street level. 

It was less crowded the night we went as there was only one group.  Some nights there are two technical rehearsals in a row.

Pictures courtesy of a stranger who helped me find a set of new batteries
at 9:00 PM on a Thursday in the lonely area surrounding the stadium. 
I  asked for help from a food vendor.  He saw a woman with minimal Portuguese skills. 
He left his number "2" in charge and returned 10 minutes later with fresh batteries. 
He protested when I tried to pay him extra for his help. 
Despite what you may hear about the dangers of Rio, this wonderful gentleman was the rule and not the exception.

 
Portela
www.portelaweb.com.br
(Best neighborhood feel)

From the downtown it is a long drive.  We passed a few police check points. 
It would have been hard to find without our local guide and master percussionist Jorge Alabe. 
The rehearsal halls  is located in the business district with restaurants

and local bars catering to the crowd. 
A light rain did not deter the pagode band from providing music for the street. 
 We were clearly a group of English speaking tourists with only a bit of Portuguese. 
We received a very warm welcome.

The inside was comfortable and protected from the rain.
 We proceeded to join the locals and dance the night away.