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At
59,
Maria
"Luisa" H.
has a deep understanding of Carnaval in the streets
of Rio de Janeiro.
When not “Going to the Streets” for Carnaval,
Luiza works as a professional translator.
When
traveling in Brazil at carnaval time you will hear the saying,
"Rio
is for watching, Salvador (Bahia) is for dancing." Luiza
says, "Rio
will never be Bahia,” where millions participate in the street
Carnaval.
“They are two
different realities."
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Yet, Rio Carnaval is about a lot
more that buying a ticket to
watch the parade at the Sambodromo. 
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The Grand Parades were moved to the Sambodromo
(Sapucai) in 1984. The stadium, consisting of a
wide boulevard running through the center and grandstands
on each side, was built to simulate a parade passing
through the streets. Unfortunately a
"street," disconnected from it's neighborhood
looses the community feel.
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The
show at the Sambodromo is like nothing else in the world
yet
Luiza calls it
"expensive and boring."
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She prefers the streets.
Carnaval
started in
the streets of Rio.
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In
2005, the streets are alive with
Carnaval.
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Blocos,
(street carnavals/block parties),
are part of the culture
of Rio's neighborhoods.
Blocos
vary in size
from a handful of
musicians
and
costumed
dancers
to
thousands of participants.
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Participation
in these grand block parties
has increased since O Globo
(the main daily newspaper), began listing the
date, time and location
of the
blocos /bandas a few years ago.
The
listings are part of a trend toward
greater participation
in Rio Street carnaval.
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In the months leading up to
Carnaval,
warm-up parties raise money for musicians, sound
cars and security. |
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(security personnel protect the musicians
from the crush of the crowd) |
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The
parties,
(starting as early as November)
typically cost
5-10
reals, ($2-3 USD).
Parties
include music, dancing and
a chance to purchase an official t-shirt.
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Technically,
a bloco includes the people who come to dance,
sing and enjoy the party.
Banda
is just the musicians.
In
reality, the terms are used interchangeably.
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Luiza,
a Carioca (native of Rio de Janeiro),
describes the urge to
participate with a bloco as the
universal urge to take a step back
from the stresses and strains of the "real
world." 
"You
forget everything when
you sing, you dance, when you are together
with so many people."
Nothing
can stop a Carioca from
"going to the streets”
for
carnaval.
Carnaval began for Luiza when she got home on Friday.
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 Carnaval
for Luiza included:
Bloco das Carmelitas (Santa
Teresa-Friday),
Simpatia é quase Amor
(Ipanema-Saturday),
Barbas (Botofogo-Sunday),
Bloco de Segunda (Botofogo-Monday)
Bloco das Carmelitas (Santa Teresa-Tues)
Meu Bem Volta Já (Leme-Tues)
"My son did all this and 20 more. “
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Here are a few photos from Carmelitas
2008 |
  
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Bloco das Carmelitas
click here for more 2008 photos |
Luzia,
a founder of Bloco
de Segunda
describes the first
year as, 20
friends who wanted get
together for a drink.
"We
said lets go on Monday."
Bloco
Segunda has grown from 20 to 10,000 people
Although
people generally drink during carnaval, it is rare to see
drunks.
Luiza
enjoyed her
grueling
carnaval schedule
with the help of only 2 beers over the
4 days of carnaval.
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Luiza
calls the street parades
very "democratic."
You
don't need
to look good in a bikini to participate.
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Many
of the blocos parade in the afternoon which
encourages both
young and old to join in the fun. |
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bloco has it's own character. Bloco de Segunda,
"is absolutely political”. "People go
disguised as the governor or the president."
This year there were many jabs at the president Lula da
Silva in the form of airplane costumes. Areo-Lula is
the street name for the Brazilian version of Air Force
One. Lula bypassed a Brazilian airplane manufacturer
and spent $57 million to buy a Canadian made plane for
presidential travel. |
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Carmelita’s
is located in the
Neighborhood of Santa Teresa, home
of a 18th century Carmelite Monastery. It is located high in the
hills above Rio. Santa
Teresa
boasts spectacular views of the city, gracious old mansions, lush
gardens and is home to some of Brazil's most vibrant artists.
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A nun's habit is a typical costume seen at Carmelita's.
These
"nun's" are anything but typical.
Many sport signs showing that the nun's vows,
like many other rules,
do not apply during the 4 days of Carnaval.
This bloco is based on the legend of a
cloistered Carmelite nun
who could not resist the temptation of carnaval.
She ran away to join a bloco on the Saturday before
carnaval,
returning on Carnaval Tuesday.
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| Cordao
da Bola Preta has been celebrating carnaval for
80 years. Luiza sounds nostalgic when she talks of
Cordao da Bola Preta.
The batteria (band) plays carnaval classics, songs from my
childhood," as well as current anthems.
Cordao da Preta is located downtown, between the north and
south zones. These zones are physically and
culturally separated by hills. This bloco brings together
different aspects of the city in a unique
"cultural mixing." The name means
polka-dots. Include some on your costume.
Luiza
describes the blocs as safe for visitors. Take the
usual crowd/city precautions. Carry as little with
you as possible.
All you need is money for food & drinks. A good pair of
dancing shoes helps.
Click
here for more bloco info.
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 Wearing
a costume is encouraged.
A
mask or wig |
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all you need to make the transition from observer to participant. |
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If you forgot to bring a costume, the street vendors of Rio are
there to help.
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The
best transportation options are taxi, bus, subway or
walking.
Even if you don’t plan to attend a bloco,
walking the streets of Rio during Carnaval you are sure to run
into one.
If you unexpectedly run into a bloco, go with the flow.
Join in and dance. Carnaval in Rio is definitely about more
than just “watching.”
Article written for Carnaval.com
by
Wendy Richardson Collins
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